Pimples—as much as we despise them, they’re ultimately inevitable (at least every once in a while), so it helps to know how to live with them. By now, we’ve all been told more than a time or two to keep our hands off; to never pick, pop, or peel off the head of a zit. Still, sometimes the aching red spots entice us to overlook everything we’ve been taught in search of that oddly satisfying bursting feeling.

Of course, once you actually pop a zit, it can be even harder to deal with because a raw head makes covering it up even more difficult. Fret not though. Knowing that pimples—and the makeup quandaries that arise from popping them—are all too common, we chatted with a makeup artist and a dermatologist to determine the best (and safest!) ways to cover a pimple. Keep reading for their top tips. 

Covering a Pimple in Steps

Cleanse

As with any makeup application, it’s important to start your pimple-concealing beauty routine with a clean face and hands. If you apply makeup on unwashed skin, you run the risk of trapping even more acne-causing bacteria on your skin, which could not only perpetuate your current zit but cause other breakouts to occur, too. So, wash your face—and we mean actually cleanse it; don’t just use a wipe. If you really don’t have time for a full cleanse, at the very least use micellar water, as the micelles act as magnets to draw oil, dirt, and debris out of the pores, offering a deeper clean than you might get with a pre-drenched wipe. 

Color Correct

After you wash your face, inspect your zit. If it’s especially red or characterized by hyperpigmentation, Ulta Beauty Pro Team Member Deney Adam says to start with a color corrector to neutralize the discoloration. To cancel out redness, use a green concealer; to counteract hyperpigmentation, use a peachy concealer. “Use a small amount of the concealer directly on the pimple and gently blend it with your finger or with a small flat concealer brush for precision, but make sure to blend the edges to create a seamless finish,” Adam says.

Conceal

After you neutralize the spot, move on to regular concealer that matches your skin. “If you are targeting a small specific spot, I recommend using a small makeup brush to strategically apply a layer of cream concealer and then set it with a light layer of powder to seal it in all day,” says board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, who works at Shafer Clinic in New York City. 

Don’t use your regular large, fluffy setting powder brush on spot treatments. Adam says using a small fluffy brush, like a soft eyeshadow brush, will offer the most precision setting. Using something larger can accidentally swipe away the coverage and create a patchy-looking pimple. 

Protect

Of course, some pimples are so severe that a spot concealer treatment alone may not do much. In those instances, Engelman recommends using a sheer pimple patch before applying any makeup. “For blemishes that are more difficult to cover, I recommend using see-through pimple patches and even applying concealer over them to blend seamlessly [with] your skin/makeup,” Engelman says. If you take this approach, you’ll likely need to use a thicker concealer to mask the edges of the sticker.

How to Cover a Pimple

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Mistakes to Avoid

Knowing how to cover up a pimple can come in super handy. It also helps to know what not to put on pimples if the goal is to make them disappear as quickly as possible. 

Most importantly, Adam says not to use dirty brushes or makeup sponges on pimples, as doing so can expose the zit to even more bacteria that can increase irritation and boost the chance of infection. You also don’t want to directly apply concealer or foundation to your pimple using the wand or applicator of your product. Doing so can introduce bacteria from the pimple into the entire bottle of concealer or foundation, which can trigger more breakouts.

To avoid both of these situations, do yourself a solid and use freshly cleansed makeup brushes or even Q-tips to apply makeup to zits. You can also use your fingers.

“When concealing a pimple, your fingers can be incredibly effective,” Engelman says. “This approach minimizes the risk of contaminating your tools. [Just] remember to wash your hands thoroughly before touching your face.” For best results (and the most hygienic application), she says to apply your concealer and foundation on the back of your hand, then use your finger to dab up the product and gently pat it onto your pimple. “The warmth from your finger will aid in seamless blending,” she points out.

Additionally, you want to be mindful of the ingredients in the makeup you apply to your pimple. “Certain ingredients such as alcohols and talc can all cause your acne to worsen,” Engelman says. “Even products [that] are natural, like coconut oil, are harmful to acne due to the fatty acids [that] sit on the surface of the skin.”

Another no-go ingredient? Silicone. “Silicones form a layer on top of the skin, trapping bacteria and sebum in your pores,” Engelman warns. “If your makeup has any of these ingredients, it might be best to skip them while you are dealing with a breakout.”

Beyond the application and ingredients, Adam says to steer clear of certain finishes when trying to conceal zits. “Avoid shimmer or luminous products—those will exaggerate the pimple, especially if it’s raised,” he explains.

When to Let It Breathe

Now that you know how to effectively cover a pimple, you might be wondering if there’s ever a time when concealing isn’t advised. Overall, Engelman says it’s important to let your skin breathe during the healing process, especially if you have open blemishes. “The best way to deal with an open blemish is to put a patch on it or leave it alone,” she says.

That’s not to say you can’t wear makeup during breakouts, though. “Occasional makeup application isn’t necessarily harmful, it’s [just] essential to minimize product buildup in pimple-prone areas and to steer clear of products that might worsen irritation or delay the healing process,” Engelman explains. As a general rule of thumb, she says to always deeply cleanse your skin post-makeup to prevent your wear from affecting the health and healing of your skin.